Albania is becoming a country to visit and they sure are preparing for that day. It is still slightly off the beaten path for most travelers, prices are super economical still and there is tons to see here.

I spent two weeks cycling on bicycle through the country, it kept pulling at me to stay. In fact they offer quite a long tourist visa…for example as a US citizen you can stay a year before needing to apply for a more specific visa…crazy to think since most countries grant a 30-90 day tourist visas!

Given I was cycling through Albania a huge decision for me was whether to visit both cities Berat and Gjirokaster. I wasn’t sure if I should make the effort to visit both or not. For me it was all about how many mountain passes I wanted to go over to see them but for most travelers its a smooth ride by bus or car to both even if they are somewhat out of the way.

From Tirana, Berat is easiest to reach while from the beaches in the South Gjirokaster is easiest to reach. I cycled North to South and went through Tirana so for me Berat was definitely on the list but after there I was headed to the coast which means crossing a mountain pass called Llongara and it is a feat to climb on bike so doing another mountain pass to reach Gjirokaster so soon afterwards was my debate.

When in Albania you might think I don’t have time for two Unesco sites so which do I visit?

Albania, like I said, kind of pulled me in. I stayed here the longest amount of time on my journey by bicycle so by the time I was at the Southern coast I decided to include Gjirokaster too as I found another cool thing to see further East. Yes, I went over the mountain pass again to reach Gjirokaster (large modern tunnel, best to cycle this early am).

After visiting both I’d say they are both worth a visit but each one is quite different.

Between the two I had a preference toward Berat. Both felt relaxing although Gjirokaster is steeper and seemed great for people watching. If you do Gjirokaster and have a car it´s worth a visit over the mountains to Permet which was the deciding factor for me in going to Gjirokaster….Permet is known for mountain biking and hot springs…plus some very gorgeous scenery!

I think if you had to pick one it depends on where you are— Did you fly to Tirana for a long weekend? Well then Berat. Did you plan a beach getaway in Sarande? Well then Gjirokaster….but if you got a week or two I´d do both, they are different and cool and views at each are lovely.

Photos of Gjirokaster

Transport:

Tirana to Berat is about 3 hours ($6) from the Intercity Bus Terminal South Zone. Leave every 30-60 minutes from 5:30 AM to 5:30 PM. Might check schedule here.

Sarande to Gjirokaster is maybe 1 hour ($6) between 10 am to 5 pm although less frequent, confirm schedules when there.

Tirana to Gjirokaster is about 5 hours

Berat to Gjirokaster is also possible…about 4 hours.

Gjirokaster bus schedule options

Not to miss food:

Berat´s #1 restaurant to try to get a seat is Homemade Food Lili…closed the day I was there so I ended up at Restauran Beratino and it was fine.

Gjirokaster don´t miss trying qifqi and other foods here!

Hostels:

Stone City Hostel in Gjirokaster is top rated in the country and offer local tours and such. I did not stay as I only biked through for the day.

Berat has lots of options, try booking.com or maybe Berat Backpackers…I actually camped a mile outside the city.

Unesco site information

Photos of Berat