How exciting it was to reach the final country of my 51 day Balkan bike touring adventure! Welcome to Greece!

Well, to be honest, the border crossing and first couple of days cycling in Greece were far from the dreamy Greece you think about visiting…but what country is 100% perfect…none. In total I spent 2 weeks bike touring (cycling) around the Western side of Greece and part of Crete. Athens was my destination for this entire bike touring journey and one of the reasons behind me doing this bike tour. I´d visited Athens on a layover the year before and loved it so much I wanted to return and get to know the country better. I didn´t know what to expect from Greece as it was a country I didn´t research much before my trip, so every stop was pretty spontaneous.

The journey to Athens through Western Greece was full of impactful experiences. Here are some of the best stories from my time cycling my way to Athens.

Best Run Of My Life!

Once I arrived to Northern Greece I left my bike and took a bus to Meteora. Somewhere I´d learned about along the way and really wanted to visit in Greece but it wasn’t on my initial route to Athens. It was 132km with 3000m of gain away or basically a really long day or two day ride away but only 2 hours by bus. I took the bus and was sooo happy I went to Meteora even though it was without the bike.

I only stayed a day but wished I could have stay several.

Arriving in early afternoon, I walked to a campground, set up and then went for a run…there was time to watch sunset if I ran there. I had no clue what I had in store. I ran up the hill, got lost in town, found a trail which had me running up some rocks and steep terrain but once I got through that I was greeted by peak-a-boo views of these monasteries at the very tippy top of some skinny rocks in the distance. It was very cool. It didn’t end there though! The trails on the other side were all green with short trees and lined with pink flowers which in the evening light felt something like out of a fairytale given the surprise views around some corners of these crazy monasteries! I was having the best run of my life! I found the road finally and continued running up trying to catch sunset…I didn’t make it all the way up but where I got to was more that good enough. The sky was filled with beautiful shades of orange with these cool rock formations in the foreground and monasteries at either side.

I might have gone farther up but I loved the trail run so much I couldn´t resist getting more time running there in the fairytale forest while there was still some light so naturally that won me over the view from even higher up.

The run down was equally great. It was so good I wanted to go do it all again. Unfortunately having only one day in town that was all I got but I did manage to hike through the trails the next day and it was just as good although not as adrenaline filled greatness as the run the prior evening.

Rental Car Fiasco

I’d actually finished my journey at this point and taken a ferry to Crete to relax and celebrate the accomplishment. I stayed a few nights at a hostel to rest. While there I met Alex who slept in the bed opposite mine. On day two he said he would rent a car the next day and invited me to join. I couldn’t say yes because I already delayed my exit to Heraklion by a day and I was eager to get to camp, save some money and be able to cycle further East on the island. I said I would sleep on it though because he was headed to the South where I wouldn’t be cycling and I’d heard great things about the beach he planned to visit.

In the morning I was still undecided but with all the options for possibilities I kind of liked the plan that he could drop me after to the campsite with my bike. I would just need to bike to the airport and put the bike in the car. I got his number and said I’d let him know, still kind of undecided, but that I had to bike that way either way. Before he left I confirmed that I would go with him.

I cycled over and put the bike in the trunk with seats down and front wheel off because it was the only way it would fit. We spent the whole day in Matala at the beach jumping in the warm water and enjoying the views and conversation. We even ate dinner and finally headed back to Heraklion after 10 pm, a full day at the beach…so unlike me!

When he dropped me off at the campsite I took the bike and wheel out. As soon as I had it all out I immediate realized I had completely failed. The part to attach the wheel, the axle, was not with me I had left it on the ground at the rental car lot in the morning. I wasn’t used to having to store it, my bike at home is quick release and every time on the trip I ever had it off it was to change a flat, so I didn’t move or have to store it, I simply placed it on the road next to me. We packed it back up, jumped in the car, now nearing midnight, and drove to the rental lot. Possibly it was still on the ground and we could grab it. The lot was closed but security was there, this we knew. We spoke to the security guard asking for 5 minutes which he understood but he wouldn’t let us in because he was afraid he’d lose his job! Wasting 40 minutes with him trying to get in we finally learned that if we had a representative from the car company we could go in so we went to the airport just before it closed with this crazy hope. The agency was closed but the competitor agency was just locking up. I was giving up but Alex decided he’d ask the competitor and she said yes! Omg!

We all crammed in the car and drove back to the rental lot. Security let us in and within 5 minutes we found it! No one had run it over but they had moved it. Incredible! Thank you Eva! and thank you Alex for being persistent and obviously for the patience and invite!..

Who knew what a crazy story going to the beach with me would be…

Pedal Fast, Zeus Is In Charge

Just one of those days when you are trying to beat the Greek god of weather, Zeus!

I left early to be ahead of an incoming storm as I’d successfully done at least once before. I had at least 5 hours before the forecast said it would show up. Plenty of time to get in my usual 70-100km daily ride.

I could see it on the horizon as I cycled.

I actually made it to my destination, unpacked and even had time to walk to town for a meal! I couldn’t believe it! At this point it seemed they would continue going around us. I miraculously picked a smart town to stay in..ha ha!

After my meal the sky still seemed clear so I continued to walk around and do errands. I was going to walk to the lagoon but realized once I got into a more open area that the dark clouds were in fact very much nearby so I skipped that plan and instead headed toward home but of course I first went for ice cream, to a bike shop and then the grocery store near my Airbnb. I managed to get the first two done but on the last one I aborted, it was farther than I thought so I turned back.

Within 5 minutes of doing so the storm hit. I picked the closest door with the tiniest awning and wedged myself into the doorframe of someone’s house as the downpour began. I kind of wished I had picked a better door with more space but the frame, although small, it was incredibly the perfect size for me. It was literally a hurricane out, with strong winds, water everywhere and lightning and I was sadly only one block away. That last errand cost me complete dryness ha ha.

The storm was fierce but let up after 10 min or so. When I decided it was calmer I jumped the rivers in the street and made it home. I hunkered down for the night as the storms kept pelting the city without avail all night. Of course I was on the top floor so lightning felt extra frightful lol.

Even though I got stuck I was happy I arrived well before the storm and in reality the hurricane moment with all the unknowns was actually super exciting, hilarious to me and definitely suspenseful for those 10 minutes.

In the end I was happy that I got a little taste of the storm outside.

It Never Turns Out As You Expect

I was less then a week out from the finish line; Athens, yet growing weary of my travels cycling endlessly day in and day out when I was presented with a fabulous day!

The day after a storm I left fairly early although not feeling great (monthlies). At least I was excited for the flatish route ahead of me (1000m gain day) but in reality was wishing I didn’t cycle at all today. That was until I met another cyclist on tour who happened to be going the same direction! They were on a fully loaded bike and rode much slower than I generally go because of the weight they carried but I didn’t mind at all. It helped pass the time and chatting distracted me from how shitty I actually felt. We cycled a few hours together then split off but departed with the plan to meet up at the same campground and share dinner!

I split off just before the crossing to the Penninsula of Peloponnese so I could visit Nafpaktos some 10km away. I was so glad I did, the place was absolutely gorgeous, friendly and very chill!

On top of that when I pulled up for lunch after exploring the main port and beach areas some I was quickly approached by a man who saw that I was cycling alone. I sat down to eat but he invited me to join his table with his friends so I did. The best plan yet, as he then proceeded to make sure I tried all the good Greek dishes and ordered me a full meal on top of that! Yummm! He understood I needed calories and I was soooo grateful lol. I´m sure his friends were surprised at how much I could stuff in lol!

Denny was a local Greek guy who spent half of his time in the US and he was with his good friends having a going away lunch. He was headed back the next day. Most of his friends spoke English and he had been to Seattle…for work…sounded like he was a winner in the IT industry’s early days as he said he had sold multiple companies and now he was retired floating between Greece and Texas, where his kids lived!

No clue how long I was there eating and chatting but I left full and happy. Although sad I hadn’t seen much of Nafpaktos and sad I wouldn’t be staying. I will just have to return…very charming place looking over at Peloponnese and with a spectacular multi tiered castle!

I said my goodbyes and thanked them a million times. Their invite was a huge surprise for me and I was very grateful for their company, expertise and care!

I rode back toward the bridge that crosses into Peloponnese, stopped for a dip then finally took the free ferry across and continued on my way toward the campground!

Athens Finale

I was excited, I was finally almost finished, only 2 days left to ride into Athens! I’d been traveling and living off my bike for nearly 50 days.

From the camp on the shores of Peloponnese I was 90 miles out from Athens (7 hour ride). The plan was to cycle and camp at the last campground before Athens then get up and ride the 2 hours into the city on fresh legs and enjoy the last short cycle.

The day before at camp there were 3 cyclists at camp…although each kept mainly to themselves. I did manage to ask the couple near me about their trip and they were basically doing the same route as me (how had I never come across them before?) and tomorrow their trip would basically end as they headed to Athens. I knew it was possible to go all the way in a day but it was a long ride…and then they said they would take the train in from Corinth…ohhh.

I thought about doing the same since a few mentioned the route into Athens having lots of factories. I also couldn’t decide if I should go further afield and see Mycenae and stay at a nicer campground or not but this meant a longer day into Athens.

Decision was to decide the next day as I rode, the route would be flat and costal most of the day. As I rode I decided against Mycenae, I’d seen enough ruins and I wasn’t excited for the hills to get there. At Corinth I kept riding and thought well if I wanted the train maybe the next city I’ll jump on. At the Corinth canal a guy approached and inquired about my trip. Before the conversation ended I swear he said I was only 18 km from Athens, I knew I still had at least 2 hours if I went all the way and there was no way was it 18km, he probably said 80km ha but it was still kind of encouraging!

I rode toward camp and decided there I had to make a decision. In the back of my mind I really wanted to be done with this bike journey, I was tired, nothing excited me anymore and my knee and leg were kind of bugging me. At the same time the guy from the Canal had somehow motivated me to finish, like egging me on to do those last 18 km ha ha. Finally I reached camp but from my direction it appeared closed…I felt kind of relieved someone else had made my decision! I would continue…ha Further up the road though I got to the other side of the camp and realized that just the other gate was closed, it was in fact open! Yet, I cycled past camp! A little further on I pulled over and thought well I could go back, stick with the plan or I could continue. I still had 2 hours of sunlight in the day. In the middle of that thought, just then a Greek cyclist passed by and I thought…riding in the evening is so nice plus if I arrive tonight I would have enough time to catch the ferry to Crete. This was enough encouragement for me to continue pedaling toward Athens. Siempre Adelante!

The route I had from the Komoot app had me take two ferries into the city. I would cross an island then cycle into the Port of Athens, Piraeus, thus concluding this bike touring trip. Bravo!

The island was super nice, quite tempting for one last wild camp. I thought, it’s Friday, I bet others think this is also a great hangout spot so maybe not. I continued, took the last ferry and cycled into the port!

At last, I was done!

In the end I did it in one day, wow! At the port I got a ferry ticket to Crete, washed up in the bathroom then cycled to the best rated burger joint near me for a massive celebratory meal. The ride to Athens was not as bad as others said, at least not my route. I did cycle by two factories just after the canal which really sucked but after 20 minutes I was past them and everything else was great. The land version I later saw from the bus and it did have tons of factories but the island version I took was quite lovely overall.

Ecstasy in Ancient Olympia

Another trip I detoured to without my bike was Ancient Olympia. It is where the Olympics began and where still, today, the torch is lit (via the rays of the suns) in front of the Temple of Hera in order to start the Olympic relay in the host country. I’m such a sporty person that a visit to Ancient Olympia was a must! This time I could easily have cycled there and with the fiasco I had of taking the buses maybe I should have but I decided against it merely because again I wasn’t planning on taking this route but also there was no way I was going to miss visiting Olympia!

In the end taking the bus was good because once I got there, walked to camp and set up I still had enough time to see the ruins and museums at Ancient Olympia that same day! Had I gone by bike I would likely not have arrived early enough to do that.

Ancient Olympia is a small town in the hills. I really liked how small and green it was. Most visitors come just for the day, on tour from the cruise ships or by train and bus from nearby towns (closest is Pyrgos) but I think staying longer is well worth it. Most tourists just see the ruins/museums and leave but the town had plenty of restaurants and a nice strip of entertainment to keep one busy but it is the nature here that added to Olympia and felt refreshing.

The ruins had plenty to see but for me the best was seeing where the torch gets lit for the Olympics, where the officials stayed (a cool compound that at one point had a pool in the center and you could just tell it was luxury even in ruin), learning that the athletes trained naked, seeing the crumbled yet evidently massive Temple of Zeus and most of all a visit to the stadium where races were held (you can run the original 192m dash and more)!

Given the stadium is where track and field events took place I made sure to run there. I didn’t run far but it was pretty awesome doing a lap and running the 200m (really 192m) sprint while imagining the stadium full of 45,000 spectators cheering for you (even if I know back then that only males could attend and participate). It was an innate feeling I got just being there running around that left me sweating because it was hot out but more than anything inspired, motivated and ecstatic being able to do this there. During the 2004 Olympics in Greece this stadium was reused to hold the men´s and women’s shot put events.

Included in the 12 Euro entry price are two museums which were quite informational and I´m glad I went as I actually learned a lot. Even if like all other museums in Greece, it was overwhelming, I just couldn’t get over the fact of where I was, Ancient Olympia.

Oh, the Taverna!

Once I finished my bike touring ride I headed to the Island of Crete to celebrate. One night I went out for dinner to a local taverna, a recommended one for some traditional dishes. I arrived just before they closed and when I finished I went inside to pay.

The food was simple yet wonderful and when I finished my various dishes I headed inside to pay. I forgot in Greece many times they give you a little dessert, on the house, as part of your meal. Obviously, they did this here too, so I sat down again, this time inside and enjoyed the lovely yogurt dessert placed in front of me. Meanwhile the owner was closing up.

In walked a girl who said she was very hungry. The owner approached her and tried to explain he was closed and would open tomorrow. She was clearly hungry so he withdrew what he said and told her to sit and eat and that he could stay 30 minutes longer. She didn´t understand what he was saying and started to back away so I spoke up and explained that she could stay for 30 minutes and she should have a seat.

I continued eating my dessert while she ordered a salad quickly. Suddenly a couple appeared at the door. Again the owner greeted them and explained they were closed and told them the hours for the next day. They didn´t understand what he said either but the owner´s friend´s daughter who just happened to be visiting her dad got up and explained to them. This couple had eaten here years ago and loved it but understood. The owner just couldn´t let them leave the island without a meal so he changed his mind again and told them to sit and gave them another 30 minutes. lol They asked his recommendations and ordered exactly that. I was still sitting and eating but about to leave when a man shows up at the door hungry.

The tiny inside seating area was now nearly full! The same process ensued…greeted, told to return and then was gladly invited in for 30 minutes. LOL By this time I was just waving him in to sit lol. In fact, I made room so he could sit next to me. I had finished and paid by now but I couldn´t leave, this scenario was entertainment beyond words. He ordered and I realized I should just move so I joined the first girl who entered at her table as it seemed more comfortable for all.

Finally, it appeared the taverna was officially closed… Soon after the friend´s daughter started making a sign with the off season hours for the owner in English so this didn´t happen again lol. Meanwhile the friendly owner was handing out shots, followed by fruit from his garden to all inside. It was all great entertainment according to me!

I started conversing with the customers while I absorbed everything playing out before me. Turns out the girl I was sharing the table with was from Portland, Oregon; the couple was Hungarian/American; and the man was Swiss. Each party shared their travel stories while they ate and we all became momentary friends.

I finally left after the owner gave his final gifts and took photos with the Hungarian/American couple who had returned to his restaurant after many years. There was a lot of joy and happiness felt on this extended night at the taverna.

I´m so glad I stayed to witness the true Greek hospitality taking place that night!

Cycling in Greece – Routes